The New Almanac

Kale

Brassica oleracea var. acephala

The hardiest green in the garden — plant it for fall, let a frost or two sweeten the leaves, and keep cutting until deep winter finally calls it.

At a glance

Sun
Full sun / Partial shade
Water
Moderate
Soil pH
6–7.5
Days to maturity
40–80
from seed (UMD); baby leaves in ~30 days, full-size leaves 50–70 (Clemson)
Spacing
8–12 in
thinned or transplanted; as close as 4 in for baby-leaf beds (UMN)
Germination soil
40–85°F

Hardiness

A biennial grown as an annual in every US zone, and remarkably cold-hardy: young plants shrug off 25°F, leaves stand to about 20°F, and established plants tolerate 15–20°F. In milder winters it overwinters and resprouts in spring (UMD).

Sun

Best in full sun (Clemson), but tolerates partial shade — 4–6 hours of direct light (UMD).

Water

About 1 inch a week (Utah State allows 1–2), deep and infrequent.

Planting calendar

Timed to your own frost dates — look up yours by ZIP on the home page.

  • Start indoors 4–6 weeks before your last spring frost. UMN suggests ~4 weeks of growing time; Utah State 5–6.
  • Transplant — Set transplants out 4–5 weeks before the last frost (Utah State) — the cold won't bother them.
  • Direct sow — Spring: as soon as the soil is workable, ¼–½ inch deep. Fall (the better crop): sow about 3 months before the first fall frost.

Kale runs opposite to the rest of the garden: it gets better as the year gets worse. The crop you plant in late summer and harvest through frost is the one worth bragging about.

Frost is a flavor ingredient

Freezing weather raises the sugar content of the leaves (UMD, Utah State) — the autumn crop genuinely tastes better after a frost or two, and UMN notes you can pick and cook leaves straight from the garden even after they've frozen. Plan the main sowing about 3 months before the first fall frost.

Heat is the enemy

Sustained temperatures above about 75°F turn kale pungent and bitter (Utah State), and heat-stressed spring crops fade fast. Time spring kale to mature before summer, then come back with the fall planting.

Rotate away from the cabbage family

Kale shares clubroot and black rot with every other brassica. Don't plant it where cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, collards, mustard, turnips, or rutabagas have grown in the past four years (UMN) — rotation is the only real defense once those diseases are in the soil.

Cut and come again

Harvest outer leaves as soon as they're usable size and the plant keeps producing from the center (UMN). Older leaves turn tough but aren't lost — massaging, marinating, or cooking tenderizes them (Clemson).

It might not be done in December

Under row cover or a cold frame, harvest extends well into winter, and if the winter is mild the stems resprout in spring for the earliest greens of the year (UMD).

Common pests

  • Flea beetles
  • Imported cabbageworm
  • Cabbage looper
  • Diamondback moth larvae
  • Cabbage maggots
  • Aphids
  • Swede midge

Common diseases

  • Black rot
  • Clubroot
  • Alternaria leaf spot
  • Cercospora leaf spot
  • Bacterial blight

Sources